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1454 messages,  Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 10:36 AM

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What is this discussion about? Pontiac Trans Sport, Pontiac Montana, Van

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#1421 of 1454 Radiator Repair 1997 Trans Sport by nthompson1 Jul 15, 2009 (5:24 am)
For now, a mechanic came to my house, changed oil, filters, thermostat, etc.. The obvious overheating culprit is a hole in the plastic end of the upper right side of radiator(gets air filter wet). Radiator and labor costs about $450. IS THERE ANY AVAILABLE SUBSTANCE THAT I CAN ADHERE TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE RADIATOR AT THE LEAK? ITS WORTH A TRY. After spending $1450 for vehicle, $450 for title, plate, and insurance, and $100 for mechanic, I am trying any possible, cheap solution first. If I have to have the radiator changed, should I have a universal coolant and reinforced metal gaskets put in, or keep as is(Dex Cool)? Lets hope the intake manifold gasket and head gasket are okay. Thanks a lot. Replies to this message: spike99 (Jul 15, 2009 5:46 pm)
#1422 of 1454 Re: Radiator Repair 1997 Trans Sport [nthompson1] by spike99 Jul 15, 2009 (5:46 pm)
Replying to: nthompson1 (Jul 15, 2009 5:24 am) Not too sure of any glue or paste that will fix a leaky rad. JB Weld Epoxy might work but not too sure if I'd truse it on a vibrating / high heat rad. For a visual, surf: http://store.heavenlyhobbies.com/29-002-8265s.html   If this is your daily ride (and needs to be reliable), I'd make lots of phone calls and price a new rad replacement. And buy a new rad cap as well. Call around, then drive to the store to buy it. I'd then install the new rad and new hoses myself. If you aren't "good with a wrench", invite a few wrench monkeys (LOL!) over and give them beer AFTER they installed and tested your van's new rad.   For main RAD cooling fluid, I'd install what the owner's manual calls for. For example, university antifreeze or DEX-Cool stuff. Sometimes, the rad's overflow container will state on the outside what to use as well. If you do switch to other fluid, you'll need to flush the system multiple times. I hear one cannot mix both fluids - or lumps will form.   Also... I hear today's Dex-Cool formula is much better then pre-2003 formula. Today's version is friendlier on gaskets and water pumps. Still, I'd change Dex-Cool fluid every 4 years (same replacement schedule as normal universal anti-freeze).   Hope this helps...   .
#1423 of 1454 Coolant level in Trabs Sport 1997 radiator by nthompson1 Jul 24, 2009 (2:22 am)
Is it normal for level to be 3-4" below top of radiator fill opening(while cool)? If I fill it, coolant drains over to the reservoir.   With a new thermostat installed, the visual water gauge shortly swings over to hot, and then back to normal for the rest of the ride. Also, the air filter doesnt get wet now.   I had ordered a new radiator(crack in plastic cap end) but it never came (out of stock).   Thanks a lot.
#1424 of 1454 Disconnecting transmission cooler lines by aitkenhead Jul 26, 2009 (7:14 pm)
I want to install an auxiliary transmission oil cooler in my 03 Montana. I do not understand how to disconnect the existing rigid cooler line at the radiator. Hayden/Imperial, manufacturer of my new cooler, had me order their fit kit number 397 which is just a flared brass tube, a compromise coupling. I am supposed to release the existing rigid tube at its quick-disconnect union at the radiator and substitute their coupling. I've tried several quick disconnect tools from the auto parts store, either split nylon collets or scissors-like tools that are supposed to encircle the rigid tube and slip into the union to spread the spring clip in there. These don't work for me (admittedly, they don't claim to work on transmission cooler lines). Any DIYers out there solve this one, or is there a professional who can give me a hint? Replies to this message: aitkenhead (Jul 27, 2009 8:01 am)
#1425 of 1454 Re: Disconnecting transmission cooler lines [aitkenhead] by aitkenhead Jul 27, 2009 (8:01 am)
Replying to: aitkenhead (Jul 26, 2009 7:14 pm) I found my own answer. The quick disconnect solution for the transmission cooler lines comes from a company called Jiffy Tite and their website has a wealth of information on how to deal with it.
#1426 of 1454 Re: overheated 1997 pontiac montana trans sport [quehouse] by nthompson1 Jul 29, 2009 (3:29 am)
Replying to: quehouse (Jun 13, 2009 5:24 pm) Reply to quehouse reply. Have had a new radiator/radiator cap installed. Overheating probem is sooner, worse. The mechanuc who installed the radiator in 2 hours, gunned the engine for about 45 minutes(on and off, mostly on). This frightened me. After I left and went to Walmart, it overheated 30 mintues later. I took the Trans Sport back to mechanic. He released the pressure with a tool, and spent about 5 minutes on vehicle. He said all it needed is to be burped to get air bubble out. Driving home, it still overheated. I stopped at another service station and asked him to burp it. Mechanic there said head gasket is blown. I have tried all kinds of ways to burp the radiator(cap on and off, adding coolant, etc.) in the driveway. After first mechanic replaced cracked end radiator, vehicle now sends out white smoke, and oil is showing higher on dipstick. How do I know if the problem is intake manifold gasket or had gasket? Please help me. Replies to this message: boga228 (Jul 29, 2009 6:05 pm) quehouse (Jul 30, 2009 9:25 am) spike99 (Aug 02, 2009 8:43 am)
#1427 of 1454 Re: overheated 1997 pontiac montana trans sport [nthompson1] by boga228 Jul 29, 2009 (6:05 pm)
Replying to: nthompson1 (Jul 29, 2009 3:29 am) No matter what the problem is they still would to pull the intake out to check the gaskets. They also can do a cylinder leakage test or a compression test on the cylinders. Try and find a good mechanic if not see the dealer to find the real problem hope that helps.
#1428 of 1454 Re: overheated 1997 pontiac montana trans sport [nthompson1] by quehouse Jul 30, 2009 (9:25 am)
Replying to: nthompson1 (Jul 29, 2009 3:29 am) I am almost sure that what you describe is a intake manifold gasket problem. What kind of mechanic installed your rad and did not notice that your engine oil was way over filled?? I would be looking for a new mechanic if I was you.
#1429 of 1454 Re: overheated 1997 pontiac montana trans sport [nthompson1] by spike99 Aug 02, 2009 (8:43 am)
Replying to: nthompson1 (Jul 29, 2009 3:29 am) Sometimes, an engine can have a head and/or intake gasket leak and NOT show any external signs. For example, the "leakage" is being sucked into the cylinder very slowly and its very hard to detect. Even from inspecting its spark plug color and tail pipe color. If the RAD system constantly needs burping, then air is getting into its system. Most likely from blown head gasket.   After engine is cool (sitting 24+ hours), remove its rad cap, let engine idle and "warm up" on its own (say 10-15 minutes), then look down its rad cap opening. If you see a bubble of air floating to the top, then its most likely a blown head gasket. That's how they detected blow head gasket on my previous vehicle.   Being a 12+ year old van, I'd seriously think about trading in or selling for parts. Replacing head and intake gasket (do both at the same time) can cost from $2K to $3K. Especially if heads need to be plained down (to remove warp) as well. If wondering, I had to "dump" a previous GM vehicle that had a head gasket leak. It wasn't worth fixing either.   Hope this helps....
#1430 of 1454 install A/C compressor for dual air unit by glessen Aug 02, 2009 (2:26 pm)
I am working on a 2001 Pontiac Montana. I am replacing the A/C sompressor. This van has dual air. And I am looking for some kind of manual on how to replace this. I need to know where the rear air accumulator is? Any help would be greatful.   Thank you Gordon

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