Last post on Aug 11, 2013 at 2:16 PM
You are in the Pontiac Montana
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Pontiac Trans Sport, Pontiac Montana, Van
#1416 of 1493 Re: Pontiac Montana 2001 Overheating!!!!! [bikeral]
Jun 25, 2009 (3:45 pm)
I had the same problem and it turned out to be a blown head gasket.
Replaced the head gaskets and remanufactured heads and have gotten another 25000 miles of it and still going strong (172K to date). Rear side of the engine is a bear to work on though but I was able to complete the job (first engine top end rebuild). The shop manual is almost required if you are going to do it yourself.
#1417 of 1493 Re: 1998 Transport transmission/axle noise [fryman]
Jun 25, 2009 (7:17 pm)
Well, I just spent all day changing the front left wheel hub-bearing assembly, and yep, that's what the airplane prop noise was. The worn assembly was so bad that, after removal, it could not be turned by hand, and the ABS sensor housing (integrated with it) was all cooked and distorted.
#1418 of 1493 Re: 1998 Transport transmission/axle noise [aitkenhead]
Jun 27, 2009 (1:04 pm)
Just spent most of the day replacing the front passenger hub assembly and I am happy to say I could let the stewardesses go. The hub came apart and had rusty water in it. Gueman, thanks for advice, that solved the problem.
#1419 of 1493 Gas odor from under the hood
Jun 29, 2009 (6:43 am)
Last week, while on a trip, my wife and I noticed a strong gas odor coming from our 2005 Pontiac Montana. The odor is inconsistent: sometimes we notice it when the van is running; other times there is no odor at all when running. Then, we may notice it when the van is parked (not running), but again at other times, there is no odor while parked. So I took it to a mechanic who had it for several hours and couldn't find any leak nor noticed any odor. He started and restarted the van and even drove it a couple times. Nothing. There was no odor for 2-3 days, but then today, it was back and stronger than ever. If we notice it while driving, we simply pull over, turn the van off and then back on, and it usually disappears. What do we tell the mechanic to look for?
#1421 of 1493 Radiator Repair 1997 Trans Sport
Jul 15, 2009 (5:24 am)
For now, a mechanic came to my house, changed oil, filters, thermostat, etc..
The obvious overheating culprit is a hole in the plastic end of the upper right side of radiator(gets air filter wet).
Radiator and labor costs about $450.
IS THERE ANY AVAILABLE SUBSTANCE THAT I CAN ADHERE TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE RADIATOR AT THE LEAK? ITS WORTH A TRY.
After spending $1450 for vehicle, $450 for title, plate, and insurance, and $100 for mechanic, I am trying any possible, cheap solution first.
If I have to have the radiator changed, should I have a universal coolant and reinforced metal gaskets put in, or keep as is(Dex Cool)?
Lets hope the intake manifold gasket and head gasket are okay.
Thanks a lot.
#1422 of 1493 Re: Radiator Repair 1997 Trans Sport [nthompson1]
Jul 15, 2009 (5:46 pm)
Not too sure of any glue or paste that will fix a leaky rad. JB Weld Epoxy might work but not too sure if I'd truse it on a vibrating / high heat rad. For a visual, surf: http://store.heavenlyhobbies.com/29-002-8265s.html
If this is your daily ride (and needs to be reliable), I'd make lots of phone calls and price a new rad replacement. And buy a new rad cap as well. Call around, then drive to the store to buy it. I'd then install the new rad and new hoses myself. If you aren't "good with a wrench", invite a few wrench monkeys (LOL!) over and give them beer AFTER they installed and tested your van's new rad.
For main RAD cooling fluid, I'd install what the owner's manual calls for. For example, university antifreeze or DEX-Cool stuff. Sometimes, the rad's overflow container will state on the outside what to use as well. If you do switch to other fluid, you'll need to flush the system multiple times. I hear one cannot mix both fluids - or lumps will form.
Also... I hear today's Dex-Cool formula is much better then pre-2003 formula. Today's version is friendlier on gaskets and water pumps. Still, I'd change Dex-Cool fluid every 4 years (same replacement schedule as normal universal anti-freeze).
Hope this helps...
#1423 of 1493 Coolant level in Trabs Sport 1997 radiator
Jul 24, 2009 (2:22 am)
Is it normal for level to be 3-4" below top of radiator fill opening(while cool)? If I fill it, coolant drains over to the reservoir.
With a new thermostat installed, the visual water gauge shortly swings over to hot, and then back to normal for the rest of the ride. Also, the air filter doesnt get wet now.
I had ordered a new radiator(crack in plastic cap end) but it never came (out of stock).
Thanks a lot.
#1424 of 1493 Disconnecting transmission cooler lines
Jul 26, 2009 (7:14 pm)
I want to install an auxiliary transmission oil cooler in my 03 Montana. I do not understand how to disconnect the existing rigid cooler line at the radiator. Hayden/Imperial, manufacturer of my new cooler, had me order their fit kit number 397 which is just a flared brass tube, a compromise coupling. I am supposed to release the existing rigid tube at its quick-disconnect union at the radiator and substitute their coupling. I've tried several quick disconnect tools from the auto parts store, either split nylon collets or scissors-like tools that are supposed to encircle the rigid tube and slip into the union to spread the spring clip in there. These don't work for me (admittedly, they don't claim to work on transmission cooler lines). Any DIYers out there solve this one, or is there a professional who can give me a hint?
#1425 of 1493 Re: Disconnecting transmission cooler lines [aitkenhead]
Jul 27, 2009 (8:01 am)
I found my own answer. The quick disconnect solution for the transmission cooler lines comes from a company called Jiffy Tite and their website has a wealth of information on how to deal with it.