Last post on Apr 13, 2002 at 3:26 PM
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Ford, Coupe, Convertible, Sedan
#45 of 54 Head Removal
Dec 12, 2001 (1:46 pm)
Not yet. It's still stuck.
Due to other problems and priorities it sat from May until November. I've worked on it a bit more, but it isn't off yet.
I removed almost all the studs. One of the studs that went through the water neck broke about 1/2" above the head surface. One other in the middle couldn't be reached by a stud puller. I'm going to weld a nut on it, then it should come out.
Two others are the rear two. They are very close to the dash panel, and I don't want to damage the sheet metal.
Next is to lift the car by the head and heat around the water neck to try and get the one partial stud to let go. I have an oxy-acetelyne torch, so I can get it very hot. I promise not to use the cutting torch! I should get time to do that this weekend.
Dec 14, 2001 (7:47 pm)
It occurs to me that lifting the car by the head might lead to unpredictable and potentially bad things if the head separates from the block suddenly. Just a thought. I was always a little nervous when I had an engine on a hoist. I had a car lift up over its blocks once and roll into a busy street. We laughed about it later--years later.
I've been where you are and came up with a method of head removal I patented. Now every time someone uses a rip saw to cut a head off they have to pay me a nickel.
#47 of 54 Lifting the car by the head
Dec 15, 2001 (7:41 am)
I am worried about that, too.
I plan to only lift the car until the front wheels are just off the ground. With the small amount of suspension travel in the "A" it won't have far to drop.
I will also block the rear wheels so it can't roll.
Does your patent also cover only cutting enough of the head to cut the one remaning stud?
Dec 15, 2001 (9:26 am)
I'm easy. Good luck on your project.
#49 of 54 Try the rope trick.....
Dec 17, 2001 (7:39 am)
Get #1 at BDC. Get a roll of clothesline rope and stuff as much as you can into cylinders 1 & 4 through the spark plug hole. put the car in high gear and push it. you may have to rock the car a few times. The pistons will force the head up from the inside. the rope is soft enough not to cause any damage to the piston or head. This is much safer than cutting the head apart and may actually leave the head in usable condition.
Dec 17, 2001 (8:13 am)
Thanks! I'll give that a try.
The head is scrap already. I'm removing it because my brother didn't drain the water last winter and there is a long crack in the head. I already have a new head, I just need to get this one off!
Dec 17, 2001 (8:48 am)
Let us know how it works.
#53 of 54 Off With It's Head!
Feb 09, 2002 (2:22 pm)
It's finally off!
There was a lot of downtime, mostly due to cold weather. I don't have a heated garage, yet.
I thought the two studs on the water neck were only for the water neck. Wrong! They go through the head to the block. One of those was corroded to the head. I was able to remove one of the studs intact, but the second broke about 1/2" above the block. That was what held me up. All the other studs were removed, except the two at the far rear. I still need ideas how to get them out. They are very close to the body, and I don't want to damage the sheet metal.
To get it off I built a temporary frame of 4x4 lumber above the car. I hung a chain from the temporary frame. Next I jacked the car until the front wheels were about 4" off the ground. I attached the chain to the water pump opening. Then I just dropped the jack. The head didn't fall with the car!
Now to put it all back together.
#54 of 54 So, hope it isn't catching
Apr 13, 2002 (3:26 pm)
After 3 1/2 years working on the '30 Tudor, fantastic paint job, power coated wheels, engine running, ready for the interior, what's the Father-in-Law do? He goes out and buys a '31 roadster, looking good but lousy color, all in the eye of the beholder. But, it is just what he drove before the war, so guess that is what it is all about. On to the interior of the Tudor, now we can get the whole family out for July 4th if we get busy.