Last post on Apr 25, 2001 at 3:14 AM
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Jul 29, 2000 (10:43 pm)
They know, or should know the problem areas on the various years and models. Hopefully they can check for rust or hear the rods knocking.
Probably better than nothing anyway?
Jul 30, 2000 (9:04 pm)
Oh, surely better than nothing, but club members are not always as good mechanics as they think they are. They're hobbyists, remember. Depends on the type of car really...old British cars or VWs or most American cars, sure, they'd probably be fine. But for high priced exotics, I'd go to an expert. You think the average club member is going to be able to spot cylinder head studs pulling on a 911 Porsche? I doubt it. Or able to do a cylinder leakdown test in the driveway?
Aug 01, 2000 (4:43 pm)
I agree, but even the worst "expert" would have taken one look at that 1950 Chevy and would have suggest a priest be called in for it's last rites.
Aug 02, 2000 (10:09 pm)
Well, no arguing that!
#38 of 43 "selling on an auction site"
Apr 23, 2001 (11:12 am)
I think that there's a fair amount of risk for the seller as well as the buyer when using an online site.
At the present time, I'm considering selling my 1977 Trans Am. I'm trying to figure out what a fair price is, but wherever I look, the prices are all over the map.
You get the people that are mentioned in postings above, who feel that their car is a real "beauty", and want top dollar for something that's really rough. On the other hand, you get cars that people inherit, lose interest in, where money isn't the issue, and just want a few bucks to unload themselves of it.
If you have a car that's decent, what can you do? I've spoken to a few people in my town, and they swear by the Internet auctions. I'm just afraid that somehow I'd be the 1 out of 10,000 who ran into some sort of money glitch, and wound up losing my car to a dishonest buyer.
On the other hand, if I advertise it locally, I run the risk of wasting a lot of time with a bunch of "tire kickers" and "test drivers", who might actually damage the car. I don't see it as being easy on either side of the coin.
Apr 23, 2001 (3:27 pm)
I had pretty good luck advertising musclecars in Hemmings in the '80s. As long as the car is something someone wants (yours is, but some of mine weren't), and it's priced in the ballpark (might take some trial and error) and you're not in a big hurry (long lead time for placing an ad) it is (or was) the best around.
If you live in a rust-free area, or the car is from that kind of area, you'll draw from a national market, generally of higher caliber than the local gearheads and dreamers.
You might also think about advertising in a club publication, but the ones I used usually required that you join the club first. I never had any luck with them but it's worth a try, especially if you already belong to the club.
Apr 23, 2001 (6:58 pm)
The prices aren't "all of the map"....only the ASKING prices are all over the map, because asking prices are fantasies. But if you gave us a good description of the car, I could tell you pretty closely what it is likely to bring on the open market. Prices for collectible cars are very well researched and documented...there is no mystery about it, really.
ONLINE AUCTIONS---oh, I think the risk for the SELLER is much less than for the BUYER.
Apr 24, 2001 (3:26 am)
Mr. Shiftright, if I read your post correctly, are you offering to give me an idea what I should be asking for the car ??
Apr 24, 2001 (9:22 am)
Well, yes, we are here to help!
#43 of 43 To Mr. Shiftright, Re/ post #42
Apr 25, 2001 (3:14 am)
Thanks for your offer. The car is a 1977 Pontiac T/A. It has the optional 400 cu.in. Pontiac engine, 4 speed manual transmission, 3.23:1 limited slip rear, power windows, tinted glass and rear defogger.
I'm the original owner, and although I live in the "rust belt", the car has never been driven in the winter. It has 44,000 miles on the clock, and the interior and mechanicals are excellent. Over the years, I've added some aftermarket parts to the car but I've kept all of the OE parts.
Keeping in mind that the car will be 25 years old in October, and the paint is original, it still looks pretty good. In all honesty, there is a little surface rust in a couple of spots, but overall the body is solid.
Once again, thanks for your help, and I'm anxiously awaiting your reply.