Last post on Apr 19, 2002 at 10:57 AM
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Ford Mustang, Coupe, Convertible
#177 of 184 Mustang neophyte question...
Feb 28, 2002 (12:15 pm)
Last night I got a good look at a friend of my mom's GT. He claims it's a completely original (owned by a little old lady who only drove it to church) factory GT. It's a 2 door hardtop (non fastback), I'm not sure on the year. I'm guessing 66-67? It looks to be in really nice shape, and it's in red. Anyway, it has the 289 with a 2-bbl carb and an automatic. Did they ever make GTs with that engine? It smelled kinda funny to me. Also, what kind of coin is it worth if it's legit?
#178 of 184 In 65-66 Factory genuine GT's had ONLY 4 bbl carbs.
Mar 01, 2002 (12:38 pm)
Front disc brakes, dual exhaust, grill lights, and 3:1 axle ratio amoung other things. If the carb is just a 2 bbl, it's a fakerooo. The only two engines coming with the GT was the 4 bbl, 225 hp and the 4 bbl 271 hp. The 225 is the 'A' engine and the 271 hp is the 'K' engine with solid lifters.
#179 of 184 Hooker headers
Mar 29, 2002 (12:50 am)
Installed engine back into Mustang last weekend. Had about 1\4 of and inch of space on passenger side and zero on drivers side. Hooker tack welds an emblem tag to their headers (drivers side) and I had no choice but to pry off and bend tubes to get an 1\8 of an inch of space between header and inside fender. Here I was worried about the spark plug flanges. Never thought it would be the inside width. Well anyways their in and their going to stay a long time I hope. Thought I would pass this info along in case someone else was considering on headers. Started motor for first time in over 10+ years, sounds just as sweet as I remembered. Can't wait to get her on the road and see what this rebuilt 289 can do.
Mar 30, 2002 (8:11 pm)
Hooker has made how many headers for early Mustangs and they still don't fit?
#181 of 184 Here's one 65 'Stang that definitely
Apr 07, 2002 (9:15 pm)
wasn't worth a damn. Saw it on the way home from the swapmeet today. Towed from a trailer. A fastback, so rusted out there was hardly anything left. Right rear panel behind wheel covered with a crude, unfinished bondo job, with the edges of the fender rusted. Front fenders and hood just hanging on, interior completely gone and gutted. Looked like it had already done some time in a junkyard, and maybe someone drug it out to the swapmeet to see if they could get a few bucks out of it, at today's values, and gave up and just towed it back home. Only usable parts I could see were the taillights-but then you can buy new replacements anywhere, so why bother. Probably the roughest Mustang I've seen, in or out of the junkyard.
#182 of 184 Hooker Headers
Apr 17, 2002 (11:00 am)
I had the opposite problem with my Hookers. They cleared the drivers side no problem (65 coupe)
but rubbed the passenger side shock tower. Installed some Hedmen tri-ys. Too bad too. Top of the line ceramic coated Super Comps just sitting in my garage all boxed up. When I take it in for it's paint job I'll have the body shop notch out that tower and install them then.
Apr 17, 2002 (1:04 pm)
The problem with headers that don't fit is that, at least in my limited experience, headers don't make enough difference to be worth the trouble. I put some headers on a '61 Chevy 348--this was thirty years ago--and open the car felt slightly quicker but capped there was no difference.
Maybe if the engine had been more radical--more cam and carburetion--headers would have made more difference but you've still got to hook them up to an exhaust system that won't get tickets.
The hi-po 289 came with streamlined iron exhaust manifolds and I think they repro them now. That's how I'd go. At least you know they fit.
Apr 19, 2002 (10:57 am)
Headers do produce more HP and torque by themselves but you are correct that to achieve thier full potential you must free up any bottlenecks that exist anywhere else, from the intake to the mufflers and all points in between. And thier advertised HP gains are always over a stock manifold.
Just an aside to anyone interested out thier, you don't really need to get every available last HP potential out of your engine in this car. It's so light that if you can get close to 300 HP, be satisfied with that.
I stuck a totaly built, stroked mill under the hood (a tad over 400 HP) and aside from the ability to smoke my tires till they're bald, the car is not really able to utilize that power effectively in the real world. If I had it to do over agin I probably would've saved a few grand and stuck a 5.0 crate engine in there.
I do have a question that hopefully someone can help me with. Since the drive train on my car is done completely I am now ready to commence the bodywork and have decided to turn my pony into an all out street rod utilizing some pretty wild looking fiberglass parts from Mustangs Plus out here in California. My question is this. How do you attach fiberglass parts to sheetmetal. They sell some shelby fender flairs (1 1/2") that I am hoping will solve a problem with my front tires rubbing against the fenders. (17" Cragar SS with 8" Falcon low profile Z-rateds)
They also sell the entire fiberglass fender with these flares molded in. These cost more than twice as much however so I would prefer to use the "flares only" unless these pose problems that I am unaware of.
Also, no lectures about "destroying this car", I bought it as a 6-bangar and ripped out and replaced the engine,tranny, and rear end and also the dash (new gauge clustter w/white face gauges)and shifter. So it's "technicly destroyed" anyway.