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Honda Prelude 1997-2002

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#41 of 2482 Rear Window by sousa1 Dec 10, 2000 (1:35 am)
My wife has brought her '98 prelude in about 4 times for the rear window rattling when it is cold out. Everytime they haven't been able to replicate the noise. When I went to pick it up today the service manager stated he couldn't find the noise. I stated that we have brought it in numerous times before and are we the only owners complaining about it. He stated that no there have been a few other owners that have brought their preludes in for the same reason and he has heard the noise in theirs. Has anyone else had this problem? And did they fix it? The service manager stated that I would have to speak withe the dealership manager and the Honda Manager about this?????????
#42 of 2482 tires/weather by only1harry Dec 10, 2000 (2:18 am)
Ah, I forgot about the cold pavement and having high performance tires. Yes, I have Bridgestone RE730 ZR tires and in the morning when it's cold out or the humidity is pretty high, they slide and lose traction easily if you don't watch your speed on the turns or when accelerating. Cold & humidity is bad combo for summer tires or ultra performance tires. I 'm in NY btw, and I just got 2" of snow Friday but luckily I don't drive the GSR that much. The Civic gets to tackle the bad weather.. About oil.. This is probably not the case with you guys but something to watch out for. My GSR takes 4.3 Qts of oil but many oil change places only put 4qts in. This may give the impression that one's engine burns more oil than normal. I informed my mechanic of this and he now puts the correct amount in, and the dipstick looks a lot better with an extra third of a quart in the oilpan. You also can't really complain to the dealer if the oil level doesn't drop below the "add" or lower line on the dipstick. They 'll tell you that this is normal and only if it 's right on that lower mark or below, that it could be something to look into. In any case, I think that conservative driving and speed variance during the break-in period or at least the first 1,000 mi. is very important and may affect oil consumption later on. Most likely the "extra" oil consumption is inherent in all Preludes. I 'll have to go call my friend to see if his '98 SH burns oil now..
#43 of 2482 by jk111 Dec 10, 2000 (4:31 am)
shrug, modding a brand new car probably will void your warranty. So if something breaks, you will probably need to pay it out of your pocket. I think oil burning depends on your driving style. If you like to rev the engine a lot, more oil will burn. But Prelude does burn more oil than others. Adding a quart between oil change will be a good idea.
#44 of 2482 '01 Prelude w/ alarm by cota99 Dec 10, 2000 (8:48 am)
What can I expect to pay in total for an automatic Prelude w/ floormats and an alarm? I'm in so. cal. Any dealer suggestions? Thanks....
#45 of 2482 Rear windshield... by 5gen_prelude Dec 10, 2000 (8:27 pm)
I've never heard of this specific problem, but I have to ask, how do you know it's your windshield? the reason I ask is that it could be two things that do have a habbit of rattling - the first being your speakers. The second isn't so much of a rattling but a clunking - but that's from the suspension. The cold is the key though - something is contracting and getting loose, specially if you have no problems in the summer. When this happens again, try and duplicate the problem over and over again with different variances before rushing off to Honda. A clearly defined problem will be a lot easier to diagnose than a rattle coming from the back. We've all been there though, the problem goes away when take it in to be looked at - it's not really the mechanics fault - if they can't duplicate it then they can't fix it.
#46 of 2482 Modding a car... by 5gen_prelude Dec 10, 2000 (8:31 pm)
It's illegal for the dealership to void the warranty on a modded car unless they can prove that the mod is what contributed to the problem. For example, if you change your suspension setup and your motor blows, they really can't get out of replacing/fixing your motor. Now if your CV joints break, well - yer f***ed.
#47 of 2482 it's hard to.. by only1harry Dec 10, 2000 (11:15 pm)
modify your car when it's brand new. I couldn't do it. I waited until I had about 14k mi. on it and then modified the suspension. I know guys that replaced the exhaust with 200mi. on their new car! That baby was still shining with not even any dust on it. I don't have the heart (or money) to do something like that. Especially when all you gain is about 2-3hp and you 're out of $500-600. A Cold air intake is a different story. All you 're doing is removing all the useless heavy (about 30lbs!) plastic housing and resonator that robs the car of valueable power and replacing it with a nice ultra light (AEM - 7lbs with K&N filter) wider intake and adding a performance filter. That I can see. I regreted that I waited 14k mi. to do that.
#48 of 2482 Modification ... by racerzrx7 Dec 13, 2000 (10:04 am)
Only1harry, I changed my exhaust system to the DC sport header and Greddy Power Evolution exhaust sytem with 400 miles on my new car. I love the sound of the high performance mufler and the extra push that the header provides. The AEM cold air system is of course a must with that setup. Why wait until 14K? unless you don't want to spend more money for the fun part. I don't race, but love to drive a such high performance car :o). And I don't see any minus side of not waiting until 14K.
#49 of 2482 Mods by asethi Dec 13, 2000 (11:42 am)
Everybody has the right to do what they want to their cars. No arguments here, a header, exhaust and CAI are cool. BUT, I'd wait till at least the first service, and definitely after the break-in perior is over to make sure everything settles down fine. C'mon, you're not even supposed to red-line the car at 400 miles!!!
#50 of 2482 agreed by only1harry Dec 14, 2000 (2:00 am)
Anyone can do whatever they want and it's fun modding your car. 400 mi. is a little extreme though.. The motor has not even begun to brake in at 400mi. VTEC motors are fully broken in after 10k! GSRs, Type-Rs and Preludes get faster and faster up until 15k miles. This is the reason I waited till 14k mi. I regreted I didn't put the AEM CAI in earlier because it offered much noticeable power but I wanted the engine completely broken in before I started getting more power out of it. To me, suspension and brake mods are more important than bolt on mods. Not that I won't eventually have those on my car as well, but $1,000-1100 + labor for a header & exhaust doesn't provide (to me) as much fun as Type-R handling and braking for the same $$. My situation is a little different too because an extra 5-6hp (in a GSR, probably more in a Prelude) from a H&E won't get you anywhere in auto-x racing where handling & braking is almost everything and gets you trophies and loads of fun. Agility, control and stability are very important to me. It's fun watching BMWs struggling to keep up with you at 120mph+ on the highway when the road starts turning..

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