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Honda Prelude
Honda Prelude 1997-2002

2482 messages, Last post on Oct 20, 2009 at 6:36 AM
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My neighbor just traded in his 2007 Mazda 3 and got a CPO BMW 328i - It seems there are deals for BMW and MB - As he told me he could of bought the MB C300 instead if the color is right. Sounds interesting... I would do the same thing with my wife's car if she likes the feeling of sporty sedan like BMW, Infiniti. But, no luck yet, I am still working on that. |
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My best friend loves Infinitis. He just turned in an '07 FX35 Sport lease and his wife's truck is a QX56. He wanted another FX or maybe an M, but the lease dealsare no where near what they were 2 years ago. He walked into an MB dealership to drive an ML & E. He and his wife both LOVED the E350. He picked up a GORGEOUS, brand new, 2009 E350 4Matic with NAV & AMG package for a little more than $11K off sticker. He also got 1.9% financing for 66 months!
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Replying to: nyccarguy (May 22, 2009 7:49 pm) But, since I just got my M45 and is not ready to part with the Prelude, I guess I have to wait for couple of years. But then again, my son will be driving and I can get a sports coupe - something like the 370Z (or what ever is comparable at the time). Until then, I will need to do a good job maintaining my Prelude so I can still drive 2 cars that I enjoy alternatively, which is not too bad.
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Replying to: shmang (May 23, 2009 5:28 am) Right now the car to get is a CPO BMW 335i sedan... I've seen people purchasing them for high $20s (2 years old). |
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Replying to: nyccarguy (May 17, 2009 11:47 am) I've decided to go with the Potenza RE760 Sports which got rave reviews on TireRack. The Yokohama's got great reviews too. Maybe I'll try that next time. Thanks for the recommendations on Service. I'll check out the timing belt/water pump etc . I recall that you guys recommended doing it all at once because of the close promixity. Also need a new Battery as I still have the original one but I don't think it'll survive the winter. Will pick up spark plugs at the same time. The other thing I'm thinking about doing is getting some paint work because I have some rust spots that need addressing. Small dings on hood and lower doors, but a bigger cracked paint area on my upper driverside door from another car opening their door into mine last year. It has already started rusting and the paint is chipping away, which is bad. I got an estimate to address everything and it's going to be about $2K, which is a lot of money. I might just pick and choose. Plus, I'm a little worried about the engine burning oil. The shop didn't find any leaks, so they suspect my engine is burning the stuff. I'll watch every 1K and check the dipstick. Other than that, I guess the only other major part expected to go is the clutch, which will also be expensive, but after that, it'll be like I have a brand new Prelude. We'll see.... Still lovin' it though!
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Replying to: preludefan (May 25, 2009 1:44 pm) Since your car is 2000, the following need to be addressed ASAP: 1) Timing belt & water pump - those are recommended to be replace at 7 years OR 105k miles, since yours is 8-9 years old, you are running on borrowed time. If the belt snap, you could have valve damage which will be very expensive to fix. 2) Spark plugs and wires. Make sure to replace them both - even the wire looks fine. They will cause other electrical related issues like alternater and distributor short - this is from first hand experience. 3) Manual transmission fluid if you have not done it yet. Good luck and let us know how the engine oil consumption results. |
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Replying to: preludefan (May 25, 2009 1:44 pm) Hopefully won't need to do major service on the ATTS. If so, I may consider getting the clutch replaced at the same time. We'll see... Also, I've driven 1k miles since my last oil change and the oil level has not dropped at all - all Hwy driving. We'll see as it get closer to 3k... Just turned 69k on the odometer ( I think I rounded up in my prior posts) |
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I had my ATTS light & Check Engine Light go on at the same time one too. The problem was my OIL FILL cap was loose. Clutch replacement was a hard pill to swallow for me (Mine was fried at 52,000 miles). The ATTS unit has to be taken out & then re-installed in order to get to the clutch. This calls for an ADDITIONAL 4+ hours of shop labor in addtion to the clutch job itself. I'd also have the flywheel & throw out bearing replaced at the same time. Have them check your differential fluid as well. I decided to go with an aftermarket clutch (CENTERFORCE) which I am very happy with. If I recall, it cost me close to $2000. |
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Wow, $2,000, at 52k miles - that is hard to justify. Mine still works at 115k - you must did a lot of high RPM clutch drop to destroy it Hope it will last until you sell it though.
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Replying to: shmang (Jun 08, 2009 9:32 am) Yeah, that's me, High RPM clutch drops...LOL! You've got 115K...I'm catching up to you. Going to hit 112K next week. You must be driving your M45 A LOT! |
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