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Coupes & Convertibles Mazda Miata Mazda MX-5 Miata (2005 and earlier)
4340 messages, Last post on Aug 25, 2009 at 9:51 AM
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I'm considering getting a JR supercharger kit for my '91 Miata. I wonder if anyone on this forum has personal experience with this kit. In particular, how does this supercharger affect throttle response? The snappy response of the stock engine is one of the qualities I like most about it. Does adding the kit require retarding the base ignition timing? I've read some have added either a MSD boost timing unit or a J&S knock sensor along with the JR supercharger kit to deal with detonation. Have you found this to be a necessary addition?
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Replying to: jungster (Feb 21, 2007 8:25 pm) |
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Replying to: medic2240 (Feb 20, 2007 6:59 am) |
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If anyone has some NA visors (for first edition Miata) they don't want please let me know. I'm looking for the little plastic clip-hinges that attach the two folding flaps together. Seems like some of you have taken the visors off your Miatas. If you can make yours available, even just the clips (!) please e-mail Message me. Thanks!
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Replying to: namxmiata (Mar 13, 2007 6:54 pm) Sorry. 
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Just took delivery of a nice 2001 Miata convertible. It did NOT come with sun visors. I gather from reading this forum that some drivers remove them. Can someone tell me why and, if possible where I can obtain a set and if I need any special hardware to mount them. There seem to be "plates" where the visors should mount with a Mazda logo on them. I assume they came originally with the vehicle. Does anyone know if a car will pass Pennsylvania inspection without them?
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Replying to: rfl (Jul 26, 2007 6:11 pm) Many owners do remove them, and in fact I have, because for tall people they are worse than useless. When deployed, they block your view forward completely. When stored, they blocked my view partially. Removed, they don't block my view. On my 93 the plate you're talking about is still there, it just leaves a hole where the visor used to attach to. |
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Replying to: rfl (Jul 26, 2007 6:11 pm) 
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Can anyone out there help me out? I just bought a 1995 Miata so I'm new to the community (though I'm happy to finally own a car that's fun to drive). My oil pressure seems low when the car idles, and gets lower as the RPMs increase. I did some initial research and learned that the fuel pressure sensors Mazda used had a tendency to act up, so I assumed this was the problem, as there were no other indications of low oil pressure (no valve noise, knocking, banging, or overheating). However, I later discovered that after driving on the highway at speeds exceeding 3,000 RPM, there was considerable valve train noise upon slowing down and an increased operating temperature, all indicating that oil is not getting to the valve train. Further research indicated that this condition could be caused by either an improper grade of oil or a partially blocked oil pump screen. I cahnged the oil, which was obviously not the proper grade because the hot stuff I drained was thicker than the cold 5W-30 I replaced it with. However, this didn't fix the pressure reading. I've driven the vehicle around town, careful to keep it to under 3000 RPM, which seems to be the magic number, and the engine runs srong, sounds good, respondes well, and gives absolutely no indications that there is an oil flow problem. Tomorrow I will taike it on the highway and run it above 3,000 and see if I there is any noise. I think the problem was a combination of imporoper grade of oil and a faulty pressure gauge. I know this seems unlikley, but when I drove the car today, the gauge indicated no pressure, yet the vehicel performed fine (I was very careful). Once the car warmned up, I got the same readings (low idle, lower operational). I seems plausible that oil which is too thick (say 10W-50) would not work well at the high RPM the Miata was designed to sustain. Simultanoeusly, it also seems plausible that a faulty gauge would give bad pressure readings regardless of the oil used. The only other option I can think of is a clogged screen at the oil pump intake, which I will check if I get valve noise after running at 3,000+ RPMs. What I want to know is if there is anyone who can think of something I've missed, another cause for this that I should also check into. Obviusly, if the oil pressure drops when the RPMs increase, the problem is at the oil pump feed side. However, I've pretty much been a 6 - 8 cylinder guy prior to this, so any additional thoughts, advice, or information is greatly appreciated. Thanks and I look forward to more discussions. Daedalus1
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Replying to: daedalus1 (Aug 29, 2007 2:58 pm) I have a 1993 model, one of the last years that actually had the true, working gauge. I'm not sure if 93 or 94 was the last year, but I'm pretty sure it was a dummy gauge by the 1995 model. So don't trust the gauge. Surely the wrong oil was being used. You might want to use an engine cleaner treatment to flush it out, then drain and fill with thinner oil, or synthetic perhaps. |
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