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Mazda MX-5 Miata (2005 and earlier)

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What is this discussion about? Mazda, Toyota MR2 Spyder, Mazda MX-5 Miata, Convertible

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#3820 of 4340 Re: Rain water coming inside on the floor boards in my Miata [miamigirl] by kymike Oct 07, 2004 (5:00 pm)
Replying to: miamigirl (Oct 06, 2004 8:56 am) Does the passenger floor get wet when it is not raining? Is it always on that side? It may be an A/C cooling unit drain tube that is clogged or came loose under the dash.
#3821 of 4340 pleas help-leaking roof by shorty11 Oct 10, 2004 (6:24 pm)
hi. I have a 95. lately the roof leaks. when i get in the car in the morning the seats are wet just from the dew that accumulates on the roof. i think the water is coming from where the top of the window meets the rubber. anyone else experience this and what can be done to fix it? thanks.
#3822 of 4340 by ateixeira Oct 13, 2004 (12:52 pm)
It might be the cable that helps secure the top.   Mine broke and I didn't even know what it was. It leaked very slightly, until I replaced the whole top. The installer pointed it out to me.   So check those cables! There is one on each side I think.   -juice   PS It was $80 extra to replace it, installed
#3823 of 4340 Turbos????????? by balas Oct 14, 2004 (7:04 pm)
After a year and a half, I finally talked my wife into getting a miata. Had my heart set on a nice new 5-sp LS. There seems to be a large amount of mazdaspeed miatas in the inventories of the dealers that I have searched. I realize that there are some cosmetic differences between the two cars, but my main concern is the turbo charged engine. Can anyone tell me how dependable they are for the long run? (I will probably have this car for at least 10 years.) Are there any special start up or shut down procedures that have to be followed? thanks
#3824 of 4340 by locke2c Oct 15, 2004 (5:07 am)
it should be no different at all, but obviously you're asking a bit early for long-term or high mileage reports from other forum members.   the engine is not stressed that much, it's only a bit more output. somewhere beyond 100k miles you'll have to overhaul the turbocharger, just like the engine will need an overhaul to return like-new performance. but odds are both will run for a long time.   start-up: don't drive until the coolant needle starts to move. don't drive hard until 5 minutes after the coolant temp reaches normal-- this is approximately when oil temp reaches normal and the engine is really ready to party down.   shut-down: if you use synthetic oil, which I would highly highly recommend on a turbocharged car, you have no real need to cool-down the engine with prolonged idling if you've just been driving fairly normal in the minutes before you park. if you've just flogged it pretty hard, then you would want to idle for 2-3 minutes and let the turbocharger cool off. an aftermarket turbo timer is mostly irrelevant these days, but some people install them anyway.   ~Colin
#3825 of 4340 by ateixeira Oct 15, 2004 (5:48 am)
I usually suggest that people take it easy while pulling out of their neighborhood, and then again when arriving.   You probably do this anyway, hopefully, for pedestrian safety.   -juice
#3826 of 4340 the BP motor by the_big_h Oct 15, 2004 (2:46 pm)
in the Miata is built for boost, so it should more than handle the low boost the Mazdaspeed Miata has been set at.
#3827 of 4340 1999 10AM by revdrluv Oct 24, 2004 (4:21 pm)
So I am on the verge of buying my second Miata (99 10th anniversary edition). I found it at a local dealership and got the price down below TMV, but found that the top is leaky when I went to check it out (thank god for the early socal rainy season this year!). There was a lot of water in the passenger foot well, and I could see where it was dripping from the window sill onto the seat a little bit as well (the seat wasn't wet though). I had to replace the top on my last Miata (which is why I knew to check under the floor mats), but I can't figure out if the problem is in the weather stripping or the top itself.   There was also a lot of condensation in the trunk area and a little inch diameter spot of water as well. The carpet back there seemed dry, but is this most likely a sign of a cracked rain rail?   I've done the paperwork, but am waiting to take delivery on it until they get the leak repaired. They will let me run the car through their car-wash to make sure it is really fixed before I pick it up.   What do you guys think? Should I take the car only if it gets a new top or could this just be a weather stripping problem?
#3828 of 4340 by locke2c Oct 25, 2004 (6:09 am)
yikes, I'd have an third party THOROUGHLY inspect the car before you purchase it-- before and after the repairs would be best.   but if everything is solid, the 10AE is my favorite Miata.   ~c
#3829 of 4340 by ateixeira Oct 25, 2004 (6:34 am)
Yeah, fixing the leak is one thing, what about the potential for early rust, though?   It could be that cable that we discussed earlier. My driver side one broke, and that created a very slow leak along the window. It was never enough to get the carpets wet, which tells me that one had a more serious leak.   -juice

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