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Mazda MX-5 Miata (2005 and earlier)

4340 messages,  Last post on Aug 25, 2009 at 9:51 AM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda, Toyota MR2 Spyder, Mazda MX-5 Miata, Convertible

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#3547 of 4340 by ateixeira Apr 22, 2004 (10:21 am)
Prices really do run high in that region, then.   I just put on a new top at PBC, that was $800 with a glass window. So definitely budget for that if it's the original top, mine is a '93 with 48k miles.   My top looked OK, just stained, but soon after it became brittle and started cracking. Check the edges near the window for early signs of wear.   -juice
#3548 of 4340 Re: AC conversion [thel #3546] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Apr 22, 2004 (4:05 pm)
Replying to: thel (Apr 22, 2004 10:08 am) Well I'm not sure of your capabilities in this area, but R134 is very sensitive to charging pressures and I'm not sure you can do this effecitvely in the home garage without proper equipment. My personal take is that a conversion to R134 has to be done thoroughly or don't bother. This is why I suggested just charged up the R12.   Besides, strange cars can be dangerous. You don't know WHAT the last person put in that system. Shops occasionally find propane in there. Replies to this message: thel (Apr 22, 2004 5:28 pm)
#3549 of 4340 Re: AC conversion [Mr_Shiftright #3548] by thel Apr 22, 2004 (5:28 pm)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 22, 2004 4:05 pm) The seller said he took it to a shop and they wouldn't refill with R12. Not sure why. If it's possible to refill, will I need to replace the seals that I'm fairly sure are the cause of the leak, or will they be fine once they get "wet" again?
#3550 of 4340 by Mr_Shiftright HOST Apr 22, 2004 (5:53 pm)
Well I'm no a/c expert although I sure have dug into a few, but it is my understanding that you need seals, a new dryer, a new expansion valve, and you'll need to clean the entire system. Also, new a/c lines are recommended. The problem is contamination and if you aren't squeeky clean in there something's going to screw up a short while after you think you have it "fixed".   So I'm going to stick to my $500 estimate on this.   Don't know why they wouldn't fill you with R12. Maybe they don't have any, that is certainly possible, or maybe they don't want to buy it in the usual wholesale quantities just to service your one car.   I just had R12 put into my BMW last week. I did the cleaning, new lines and new dryer and expansion valve, and the system works really really well. It's not cold, it's PAINFUL!
#3551 of 4340 AC parts by thel Apr 23, 2004 (10:21 am)
Can seals, the new dryer, expansion valve, etc. be bought at an auto parts store? This could make a fun little distraction of an automotive project.
#3552 of 4340 R12 by ryoken Apr 23, 2004 (11:15 am)
I don't believe they're allowed to just refill an R12 system anymore. It's a closed system. If you're low on freon, then there's a leak, and the system has to be repaired or it will leak again. Since R12 depletes the ozone layer, the EPA has made sure that federal laws limit your ability to release the stuff into the atmosphere.   I saw an old can of R12 (about the same size as your average WD-40 can) sitting on the shelf in my grandfather's garage. It had a KMart price tag on it that said "$0.79."
#3553 of 4340 by ateixeira Apr 23, 2004 (11:57 am)
I was $17 per pound of the stuff when my Escort's A/C went out, and that was way back in 1996 IIRC. The stuff is worth more than gold now.   $0.79, that's funny!   -juice
#3554 of 4340 by Mr_Shiftright HOST Apr 23, 2004 (2:45 pm)
Sure an A/C specialist can test, capture and refill R12 for you. But if the system is contaminated, it's not going to work for very long. This is why it's a good idea to replace the dryer and expansion valve. Sometimes on these old systems the dissicate (drying particles) burst in the dryer and foul up the expansion valve. Reading the pressures will tell your tech what's going on with that.
#3556 of 4340 1990 Miata question by cabstewart Apr 27, 2004 (5:50 pm)
This question may be asked a lot but here goes... I have a 1990 Miata with approx 98K miles - I love driving the car but it rattles a lot and seems loose. When I look at Miata parts sites (like MMMiata.com) I see lots of parts like a subframe brace, rear brace, rear stabilizer brace bar, sway bars, etc. Our car is not used for racing - just fun drives. What, if anything, will help to solidify the car for a low price and home installation (my husband is handy but not a mechanic) and reduce the amount of rattles?   Thanks in advance!

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