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Mazda MX-5 Miata (2005 and earlier)

4340 messages,  Last post on Aug 25, 2009 at 9:51 AM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda, Toyota MR2 Spyder, Mazda MX-5 Miata, Convertible

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#3540 of 4340 Re: R-134 by ryoken Apr 22, 2004 (8:54 am)
What year did they start coming with R-134 from the factory?
#3541 of 4340 thel by lngtonge18 Apr 22, 2004 (8:56 am)
Let me know if you need a hardtop or a replacement tan softtop with glass window. I gotta get the hardtop out of my shed but haven't found the time or money to advertise it.
#3542 of 4340 ryoken by lngtonge18 Apr 22, 2004 (8:58 am)
I believe 94 was the first year for R134a.
#3543 of 4340 by Mr_Shiftright HOST Apr 22, 2004 (9:27 am)
Why convert? It's expensive and if your A/C system is in good shape and isn't leaking just refill with R12. A lot cheaper.   of course, the a/c system might have other problems, and that's not cheap to fix. At that age compressor or expansion valve problems are not uncommon. Replies to this message: thel (Apr 22, 2004 9:42 am)
#3544 of 4340 Re: [Mr_Shiftright #3543] by thel Apr 22, 2004 (9:42 am)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 22, 2004 9:27 am) I've thought about that, but I thought that the R-12 freon was really expensive whereas the R-134 conversion kit, I've been told, is only about $40 or so.   The only thing I'm truly worried about is what caused the leak. I think it may be due to not being used for a long time b/c the seller says that he only put about 6,000 miles on it in 2 years and that it was stored over the winter. So I'm hoping that maybe a seal got dried out and that caused the leak rather than a bad compressor. Hopefully, that would not be an expensive fix...
#3545 of 4340 by Mr_Shiftright HOST Apr 22, 2004 (10:00 am)
I don't see how conversion could cost you only $40. You have labor to replace the seals, new a/c lines, evacuate the old system, add new refrigerant and test everything. And I think a new dryer and expansive valve are usually required.   I think $500 is more like it if you want it to work properly. An R12 recharge would be more like $150.
#3546 of 4340 AC conversion by thel Apr 22, 2004 (10:08 am)
I'd heard that the kit was about $40 including refrigerant. Labor would, of course, be extra but if I did it myself I'd just pay myself with a few beers. I found an article on Miata.net that has instructions so that + a shop manual and I think I could do it.   As for evacuating the old system, I think I may be able to get a local shop to do it for me. Not sure how much, if anything that would cost since the old (valuable) freon can be recycled.   If all I need is a recharge, it would be worth it if $150 is all it would take.   How much would new seals be to replace dried out ones? Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 22, 2004 4:05 pm) thel (Apr 22, 2004 5:28 pm)
#3547 of 4340 by ateixeira Apr 22, 2004 (10:21 am)
Prices really do run high in that region, then.   I just put on a new top at PBC, that was $800 with a glass window. So definitely budget for that if it's the original top, mine is a '93 with 48k miles.   My top looked OK, just stained, but soon after it became brittle and started cracking. Check the edges near the window for early signs of wear.   -juice
#3548 of 4340 Re: AC conversion [thel #3546] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Apr 22, 2004 (4:05 pm)
Replying to: thel (Apr 22, 2004 10:08 am) Well I'm not sure of your capabilities in this area, but R134 is very sensitive to charging pressures and I'm not sure you can do this effecitvely in the home garage without proper equipment. My personal take is that a conversion to R134 has to be done thoroughly or don't bother. This is why I suggested just charged up the R12.   Besides, strange cars can be dangerous. You don't know WHAT the last person put in that system. Shops occasionally find propane in there. Replies to this message: thel (Apr 22, 2004 5:28 pm)
#3549 of 4340 Re: AC conversion [Mr_Shiftright #3548] by thel Apr 22, 2004 (5:28 pm)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 22, 2004 4:05 pm) The seller said he took it to a shop and they wouldn't refill with R12. Not sure why. If it's possible to refill, will I need to replace the seals that I'm fairly sure are the cause of the leak, or will they be fine once they get "wet" again?

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