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4968 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 4:49 PM
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Basic symptom is with foot off the accelerator vehicle continues to roll along at 40 MPH (or maybe 50) on a flat road without slowing down. Kind of like it thinks you still have your foot on the gas. Not a big deal on flat road, but going downhill with a police officer coming toward you, well I made a $125 donation to the state of Vermont. It has happened twice, once late lat winter on a trip, and a last week. It resolved itself after I was pulled over and restarted it and hasn't returned. No ce/ses lights or anything and haven't had it checked yet for codes (and may not be easily re-creatable gieven history). I am thinking it may be Throttle position sensor issue, any other ideas?
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Replying to: ray80 (Dec 03, 2009 6:01 am) Or the cable under the hood is kinked. Some higher milage cars can actually build up crud on the throttle valve causing it to not close. Take off the intake tube and get a toothbrush and electrical/carb cleaner and lots of rags or paper towels and clean that butterfly valve up, especially around the edges front and back. If this is the problem you should be able to see the crud built up. |
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Replying to: ray80 (Dec 03, 2009 6:01 am) The brake pedal would have slowed the car... I think Bolivar is spot on with the throttle plate gummed up theory. If you're above 45 the trans may be in 4th so a slight throttle opening will keep the engine pulling lightly and hold speed. BUT usually the throttle plate having gum around it is felt when starting the car. As things cool the throttle body shrinks and the throttle plate shrinks less with a different coefficient of expansion and the first time you try to move the cold throttle plate after starting it is stuck in place with the gum filling in the clearance. So the movement when it lets go gives too much gas--not good if you're in gear. But your car may have the problem which is oily goop from the engine sump area condensing in the upper parts after being shut off. If you do it yourself, the ideal way is to take off the whole throttle body, remove MAF and Idle Air control and clean. Then reassemble with a fresh gasket where it butts up against the upper intake manifold. The end of the throttle body has a honeycomb on it which is held in by a spring clip around the circumference. It's very fragile to remove. Use a wood stick to hold towel or cloth and use air intake cleaner on the cloth and rub. I don't recommend spraying it in. A toothbrush or other plastic brush may soften around the bristles and lose them inside due to the solvent. (Ask how I know.) A mechanical binding should be noticed if you take off the beauty cover on the motor and move the linkage yourself as a way of checking for cable binding. You might be able to feel the cold friction I mentioned earlier when you first move the throttle plate as a way of verifying the oil gunk is the problem. |
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If I install a switch that would allow me to temporarily disconnect my antenna from my car radio (to cut off most of the radio signals from getting to the radio), will the sort of FM transmitters that plug into cigarette lighters work better ? Or are those FM transmitters dependent upon the antenna being connected to the radio ?
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Replying to: alternator (Dec 04, 2009 5:17 pm)
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Replying to: bolivar (Dec 04, 2009 9:52 pm) Maybe not eh ?
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Replying to: alternator (Dec 05, 2009 8:25 pm) When using a modulator to antenna connection, the highs in the frequency response go from 20,000 to about 12,000 and the lows are not enhanced either. If you have a cheap ear, then it doesn't matter. |
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